Niagara’s Wine Evolution: Reflecting on 40 Years of Progress

Niagara’s Wine Evolution: Reflecting on 40 Years of Progress

The recent sale of two of Niagara’s celebrated wineries, Featherstone and Chateau des Charmes, has caused us to reflect on how far the industry has come in the last four decades. Ontario has transformed from a fledgling region, which made lower quality wines from native and hybrid grapes, into a globally respected player making wines from noble Vinefera vines. Despite initial wines that were less than ideal, these early years laid a foundation that gave us the wines we have today.

The pivotal transformative moment was the 1988 Canada-United States Free Trade Agreement. This resulted in increased competition from U.S. wines, especially from California. However, instead of devastating the Ontario industry, it lead to a shift towards better vineyard and productions methods and the accelerated planting of Vitis vinifera grape varieties, like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The next significant change was the establishment of the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) in 1988. The VQA set strict standards for grape varieties and winemaking techniques, ensuring minimum quality standards and boosting the reputation of Ontario wines. VQA on wine labels provided consumers an assurance that the wines were high quality.

As decades passed, Niagara became Ontario’s premier wine region, known for producing world-class Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir, Cabernet Franc, and Sparkling. Icewine was the first Ontario wine to receive international awards. However, now many of our wines are receiving global recognition. For instance, a Bachelder Niagara Pinot Noir was recently included in the blind tasting exam for the renowned Master of Wine program, which is the pinnacle of education in the wine world.

Despite challenges, such as climate change, the future of Ontario wine looks promising. From its modest beginnings to its current status as a respected global player, Ontario’s wine industry has come a long way in forty years, creating unique and distinguished wines.

My ratings are based on a 5 star system developed by Michael Broadbent: 5 stars: Outstanding; 4 stars: Very good; 3 stars: Good; 2 stars: Moderately good; 1 star: Not very good, but not bad; No stars: Poor.

Mouton Cadet White 2023 ★★★+ $16.75 (LCBO)
This wine brings back memories of my first experience with a French white. It’s a Bordeaux blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Muscadet that has kept up with the times and is a good white for your dinner table. The Semillon mellows out this medium bodied wine with flavours of lemon, herbs, stone fruit, and mango. Serve it with asparagus salad or grilled scallops.

Maria Papoila Vinho Verde Loureiro/Alvarinho 2022 ★★★½+ $17.95 (Vintages)
Vinho Verde from Portugal is a nice addition for your summer table. This one is an appealing version since it blends Alvarinho into the more common Loureiro. The wine is pale, fresh and tinged with green apple, lemon, green herbs, and a little bit of tropical fruit. If you’re looking for the perfect complement for salads, creamy cheeses, and seafood of all kinds, try this white.

Redstone Rosé 2023 ★★★½+ $18.95 (Vintages)
A truly enjoyable Niagara sipper made with Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Gamay and Cabernet Sauvignon. You’ll find strawberry, raspberry, peach, and a little rhubarb followed by a citrusy, red cherry finish. It’s a Rosé that’s medium bodied and would make an excellent pairing for strawberry feta salad, shrimp off the BBQ, or just enjoy a glass by itself.

Pongrácz Cap Classique Rosé NV ★★★½ $22.95 (Vintages)
The descriptor Cap Classique means this South African sparkler is made by the Traditional Method, which is same process as Champagne. It’s a well made wine that shows berries, fresh bread, lemon, and red currant built on a mineral backbone. You could have it before dinner, but this wine would be even better with your summer charcuterie board.

Cave Spring Cabernet Franc Dolomite 2020 ★★★★ $27.95 (Winery, Online)
This medium bodied Cab Franc is Cave Spring’s second tier wine with fruit sourced from their own vineyards. You can find it on restaurant wine lists, but it’s worth getting a few bottles for yourself if you visit the winery (or order it online). It’s red currant, black cherry, cedar, sage leaf, and vanilla character would make an excellent complement to your BBQ meats. It’s reliably good; so, if 2020 isn’t available, pick up some of the current vintage.

Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2022 ★★★½+ $21.95 (Vintages)
New Zealand is producing excellent Pinot Noirs, especially from the Central Otago region. However, you shouldn’t ignore this example from Marlborough (which is better known for Sauvignon Blanc). Expect typical berries, cherry, and oak spice with just a dash of earthiness. If cedar planked salmon is on the menu, this is your wine match.

Seghesio Zinfandel Sonoma County 2021 ★★★★ $30.95 (Vintages)
This red has become a Vintages Essential for good reason. Not only is it reliably excellent, other Zins of this quality would cost you north of $50. Filled with black and red fruits and full bodied with moderate tannins, it’s nature’s most perfect BBQ wine for red meats and sausages. Then again, if you haven’t tried it with a meat lover’s pizza, you’re missing out on another superb pairing.

Feudo Croce Nyktós Aglianico 2022 ★★★★ $15.95 (Vintages)
Aglianico is an ancient Italian varietal (enjoyed by Pliny the Elder during Roman times) usually found in Campania and Basilicata. This version, however, hails from Puglia, which is the heel of the boot. It’s a Decanter Award winner for good reason. The wine is full bodied and somewhat tannic with intense dark plum, black cherry, prune, rosemary, sage, licorice, and vanilla. Meat stuffed peppers or pancetta pasta would make a good dinner combination. It represents a remarkable value at this price point.

Pesquié Édition 1912m Ventoux 2021 ★★★½+ $17.95 (Vintages)
Ventoux is a wine region in the Southern Rhone that is overlooked. You should give this blend from Ventoux some attention. It delivers a lot for under $20. Think strawberry jam, raspberry, plum, red currants, cedar, rosemary, and white pepper. With medium tannins, it’s ready to drink now with ratatouille, vegetarian pizza, or grilled eggplant.