Mediterano Plavac Mali 2021 ★★★★ (90)
It’s taken a long time to track down a proper example of this wine. Plavac Mali (sometimes spelled Plavic) is a Croatian red; this one is from the island of Hvar, off the Dalmatian coast, but that’s not the most interesting part of the story.
What is really fascinating is the grape itself. This obscure varietal is genetically identical to Zinfandel in California and Primitivo in Puglia. Somehow, this grape travelled far from its homeland, and in a twist of fate, its offspring became far more famous than the original.
In the glass, the wine is dry and full-bodied, with a Mediterranean soul. Aromas and flavours of florals, blackberry and raspberry mingle with notes of cigar box, vanilla, sage, and rosemary. Stylistically, it leans closer to Zinfandel than Primitivo, with a bit more freshness and lift. It’s a natural fit alongside grilled steak, or pair it with hard cheeses and herbed almonds.
$18.95 (Vintages)