Few things divide wine drinkers faster than certain familiar names. Mention Chardonnay, Merlot, or Pinot Grigio and you’ll hear someone comment how much they dislike that wine. They’re the wines we love to hate. These wines are often coloured from past bad experiences, which makes them misunderstood.
Chardonnay remains the most polarizing. For some, it’s comfort in a glass. For others, it’s shorthand for over the top oak excess. The reality: Chardonnay is one of the grapes most affected by terroir and how the winemaker treats it. In the right hands, it offers freshness, depth, and versatility at the table. When pushed too far, it becomes an over oaked, manufactured commodity.
Merlot has suffered from reputation more than reality. Once ubiquitous, it became unfashionable almost overnight after the release of the movie Sideways in 2004. Yet Merlot, when well made, delivers lovely fruit flavours without the heaviness of full bodied wines. Ironically, many who claim to despise it happily drink blends like Bordeaux where it often figures prominently.
Pinot Grigio may be the most unfairly judged of the three by wine aficionados. I’ll admit I’m guilty of this offense. Due to many Italian wineries focus on high yields in their vineyards at the expense of quality, its worst expressions have been reduced to watery, forgettable whites. But beyond the mass-produced versions are wines with texture showing orchard fruit with a wonderful mineral backbone. Look for ones from the Alto Adige and Dolomiti regions.
It’s always a good time to challenge old habits so we don’t miss out on great wine experiences. Always be curious my wine loving friends!
Ratings: 5 stars: Outstanding; 4 stars: Very good; 3 stars: Good; 2 stars: Moderately good; 1 star: Not very good, but not bad; No stars: Poor.
Chartron et Trébuchet Mâcon-Charnay 2024 ★★★★ $26.95 (Vintages)
This Chardonnay from the sun-drenched Mâconnais in southern Burgundy is a standout for both quality and value. Completely unoaked, it sits comfortably between medium- and full-bodied, showcasing bright lemon, lush apple with a touch of peach and apricot. A subtle creaminess on the palate points to lees aging, adding texture without masking freshness. This is a natural partner for roasted poultry and it shows just as beautifully alongside creamy cheeses.
Bollini Pinot Grigio Vigneti della Dolomiti 2022 ★★★★ $19.95 (Vintages)
The slopes of the Dolomiti Mountains are known for producing exceptional Pinot fruit and this wine makes that quite apparent. Fresh and dry with a medium-bodied feel, it offers pure flavours of pear, lemon pulp, and crisp apple, underscored by a clean mineral note and a subtle touch of honey. Lively and refreshing, it’s an ideal match for appetizers, light starters, and fresh salads.
Litorale Val delle Rose Vermentino 2023 ★★★★ $19.95 (Vintages)
This Tuscan Vermentino makes a perfect case that Italy crafts some excellent white wines. It opens with bright notes of lemon, ripe yellow apple, yellow plum, and pear, followed by a subtle mineral core and a whisper of herbaceous fennel. Dry and edging toward full-bodied, it’s a versatile food partner. It will lift lighter dishes like soups and salads, but it truly sparkles alongside seafood, especially deep fried calamari or shrimp.
Quails’ Gate Merlot 2022 ★★★½+ $36.99 (Winery, Online)
Merlot is the most planted grape in the Okanagan and this wine makes a strong case for its popularity. Supple and full-bodied, it’s aged in 25% new French oak, adding polish without overpowering the fruit. The palate is generous and inviting, with layers of ripe plum and black cherry, followed by cedar, gentle oak spice, earthy notes, sweet vanilla, and a subtle hint of dried rosemary. This is a versatile, food-friendly red, especially good alongside red meats, especially pork chops, or a hearty mushroom pasta.
Bo•Teek Clone 327 Cabernet Franc 2021 ★★★★ $35.30 (Winery, Online)
Winemaker Brian Schmidt at Vineland Estates has long championed Cabernet Franc as one of Ontario’s best wines and this red makes a compelling case. Dry and just over medium-bodied, expect a cascade of red and black currant, black cherry, and savoury notes of rosemary and pine needle, all lifted by subtle vanilla. Pair it with a Sunday roast, but for a spectacular pairing, serve it alongside herbed lamb chops.